Getting Started
by Doug Martin
Let me start by saying, many great articles and books have been written about getting started in saltwater fly fishing by folks that probably know a whole lot more than I do. That being said… I’ll offer up my 2c and hopefully it will help you get pointed in the right direction. If I know of another place where you can get good info on a particular subject, I will direct you there, fair enough?
First, your gonna need some gear. My best fishing buddy would tell you to “buy the best you can afford” and he’s probably right. However, I would leave the expensive trout stuff at home. The surf zone is a very harsh environment and will take its toll on whatever you bring there. Also, I wouldn’t want to be worrying about a $500 rod every time my clouser, with extra-heavy barbell eyes and 27 feet of lead core came whizzing past it at 100+ mph. That being said, you need to be able to trust your rig when you hook into a nice fish. (Which you will of course)
Also, I will tell you what I use! And will gladly mention the make, model, type, whatever. It’s not like I’m getting paid for any endorsements and maybe it will help.
RODS
For Southern
California waters I would stick with rods in the 6 to 9 weight class. I
personally prefer to keep my tackle on the light side. I am still using the same
rod I started with several years ago. It’s a St Croix, 9 foot, 6-7 weight that I
bought new for $85 at Sport Chalet. It has served me very well and I have no
plans to replace it. A lot of folks prefer the 8 and 9 weight rods when battling
the wind. I have a 9wt rig and I only use it when it when the weather gets ugly
or I am targeting bigger fish.
REELS
Stay with a reel
that is fairly simple in design, preferably one that is designed for use in salt
water. These fish fight hard for there size and a good smooth drag will help you
fight a good fish. If you have money to spend, spend it here. I use a G. Loomis
Adventure #7 and I love it. (Only about $100)
LINES
For me, this was the most confusing
part. Most folks who fish in the surf use shooting heads. This system has two
main components, a shooting line and a head. The idea is to have a small
diameter shooting line that can easily shoot through the guides of the rod, and
(hopefully) increase the distance of your cast. The head, which is usually
weighted, then sinks at a prescribed rate.
Some real advantages can come from using this system. First, heads, which are usually about 25 - 30’, can be easily changed to adapt to different conditions. Second, they are less expensive than traditional fly lines. Third, once you get use to them, they cast far even in the wind. You’ll find some good casting advise at: http://www.danblanton.com/casting.html
There are three main types of shooting lines each with advantages and disadvantages. I’ll run through them quickly.
Amnesia - a very thin, oval shaped, single strand, mono line. The farthest casting by far but tricky to handle and if tangled badly you’re done. (I wouldn’t recommend it for the surf) Very inexpensive.
Running Line - Just like standard fly line but in a very small diameter and no taper. It handles great but you lose a little distance. About $25
Braided Mono – Happens to be my choice. Costs form $8 - $20 bucks. Casts far and handles well. You must stretch it before use.
After choosing a running line you’ll need a head. Heads are sold in different ways. Some are rated by “type” usually Type I – Type VI. “Type I” having the slowest sink rate. I would choose a Type IV – VI because they will get the fly down quickly especially in the surf zone or where there’s moving water. The other way heads are rated is in “grains” i.e. 100 – 600 grains. The higher the number, the faster your line will sink. An easy way to think about the two is that a type four head is about 400 grains.
Another option is to use LC-13. LC-13 is an inexpensive lead core line that is sold in bulk. 30’ of it will only cost a few bucks. It is one of the fastest sinking lines around but doesn’t cast as nice as a regular head and you will need to figure out what length matches your rod weight. My 6-7 weight casts well with 28’ of it. Buy a 30’ piece and take it down to the park or water and cast it. You can trim off a foot at a time until it feels right. Don’t go less than about 24’ or you might have trouble getting it to turn over.
You will also need some solid backing. Don’t go less than 30lb. In fact 30lb backing should serve you well on most reels.
I would start by going to the tackle shop (with my reel, unless I was buying one) and get the following. A 400grain (type 4) shooting head, a braided mono running line and about 200 yards of 30lb backing. Have them do the work of setting it up for you and WATCH THEM as they tie the Knots and rig the lines. Ask questions! Also, be sure to ask them to make a large loop in the end of your braided mono to head connection so you can change out the head easily later.
Eventually you will learn all the knots and connections but the water calls and there are fish to be caught. I suggest you buy a book on Knots if you don’t have one already and practice them when you cant fish.. You’ll find a good article on loops at Dan Blanton’s web Site: http://www.danblanton.com/gettinglooped.html
LEADER
The leader you use will depend a lot
on the conditions you’re fishing in and what species you expect to encounter.
One thing I will say, don’t waste your $$$ on fine leader and tippet material.
Go for flat mono. I prefer Maxima and I buy it in 250 yd. spools at about $10 a
pop. Some are opting for fluorocarbon because of its abrasion resistance (get
out the wallet again). For the most part, these fish are not leader shy but
there are exceptions. Most people use standard, flat mono from 6lb to 12lb. Here
are some guidelines.
Keep it short! When fishing a head, I wouldn’t use more than about 5-7’ of leader if the water is really clear. Some folks use as little as 2’ in turbulent surf. The short leader will help you maintain contact with the fly and feel the fish in time to hook it. It’s also much easier to cast and will keep your fly down.
Match the conditions If your fishing a quiet backwater or calm sandy beach stay with a lighter and longer leader. Say 5-7’ of 6-8lb. If the surf picks up, or your fishing a rip, or there are rocks around go heavier. Keep in mind that you may want to be able to break off a monster patch of seaweed (or a monster bat ray) without loosing your head and running line. When using a heavier rod, use a slightly heavier leader. I tend to go light and I’ve caught halibut to 10 lbs on 6 lb Maxima while targeting smaller fish. (I hate it when that happens- lol) but, I spent the whole play worrying about my leader and knots. A bit foolish with hindsight.
Ok, where are we… We have a rod, a reel, line and leader – almost there. Let’s talk Flies.
FLIES
I dream of flies. As
in trout fishing, matching the “hatch” is the ultimate goal. Fish in the surf
are constantly on the prowl for food and seem to eat a wide variety of critters.
Occasionally they will key in on certain food items but thankfully, most of the
time, they aren’t all that picky. Size and color can be important but when
starting out, a few good flies will certainly get you into the game and then
some. Some saltwater fly fishers insist on targeting certain species with
certain flies. That’s a great place to begin but you will soon learn to expect
the unexpected.
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I recommend starting out with a few clousers in olive and white and chartreuse and white #4-2. These are great flies for imitating bait fish and the barbell eyes will assist you in keeping the fly down. You should also have some flies that are hot orange or some combination of orange and another color like tan, red or white in #6-4. (see the flies page) Two orange flies fished in tandem work better than one. Just tie a piece of leader about 14” long to the bend of your first fly and then tie on a second smaller fly. Using a loop knot like a Uni or a Triline knot when tying on these flies will add to their performance.
That’s really all you need to start catching fish. The rest will make you more comfortable and probably more successful, but are optional.
OTHER STUFF
Stripping basket –
A
handy gadget indeed for managing your line. You can pay good money for a good
stripping basket or, like most people I know, you can make your
own. If you do,
just be sure that it has plenty of drainage and can be removed easily. These
things can be dangerous and can pull you down if the odd wave catches you so
don’t wade out much past your knees with them and BE CAREFUL.
Fanny Pack – Or something like it to fill up with stuff.
Tools – Line sniper, pliers, hook sharpener etc.
Waders – Optional in the summer in So Cal but a must in winter if you want to fish for more than an hour or so. Leave the felt soled trout boots at home. “Flats” or dive booties work great with waders. I almost always wear waders. I’m just more comfortable in them.
Also – Don’t forget the sun screen, a hat, your Polaroid’s and a throw away camera in a plastic bag.
IN CLOSING
A great place to buy
FF stuff on line is http://www.bobmarriotts.com/
Their catalog is awesome and they will usually send you one for free if you buy
something from them. They are very knowledgeable about the So Cal area and are
usually helpful without getting pushy. (I like that).
Well that should help a little in getting you started anyway. Like I said before, my 2c. There’s an awful lot I haven’t talked about. The most important thing you can do to learn is to get out and fish. And above all, have fun, be safe!
GOOD LUCK TO YOU!!! Let us know how you do!